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| The
Sinapius wine taste
Podcast |
sinapius_riesling.mp3
( 13 mb, 14:14 minutes ) |
We
start by trying Vaughn and Linda's rieslings. Vaughn gives us a taste
of the yet to be bottled 09 Riesling and discusses
what style he is trying to achieve with this variety.
We also learn what the term 'off dry' means and why it's different from
'sweet'. We also hear from the frogs. To finish this part we try the 08
riesling which was the first riesling Vaughn has made and find out why
it was a 'no brainer' to produce. |
sinapius_chardonnay.mp3
( 11.2 mb, 12:18 minutes ) |
As a reward for being so
nice about the rieslings we got to try the award winning chardonnay. It
was even better than we remembered. We also try the
08 and decide that it is as good. This leads us to speculate
if
the 07 won gold and the 08 is better then it should win platinum. Along
the way we find out the
meaning of 'bottle shock'. |
sinapius_pinot.mp3
( 13.6 mb, 14:54 minutes ) |
We finish our tasting
with the Sinapius Pinots. We hear about dodgy pinot making, brave pinot
making and how to market wines that are out there. We taste the 06 (the
wine Vaughn rejects), the 07 and the as yet not bottled 08 (bring a bit
of balance). |
Vaughn Dell
and Linda Morice - First chardonnay - bam - first gold medal
Vaughn and Linda won a gold medal with their
very first chardonnay. Blatant show offs? Bit too lucky for their own
good? Or the start of a very successful career? We had to go and find
out.
Sorry about the start maybe it's just our envy getting the
better of
us. Mind you, what can you do when someone wins a gold medal the first
time they make a chardonnay? We were trying to remember what we were
doing at their age and the best we could figure was at least we stayed
out of jail.
We tried the Sinapius chardonnay at the last Tasmania Wine
Show
and, like the judges, were stunned at the quality, complexity and taste
of this wine. So we were pretty keen to try the rest of the range and
it was off to the Tamar to have a chat. On the way up we have
to
confess we worried we were going to meet a one wine wonder. Well, we
took all those anti-anxiety pills for nothing.
Vaughn and his partner Linda Morice own the Sinapius label
which
they
make from their vineyard located near Lilydale in the Tamar Valley. The
area is also home to Delamere and Bellingham vineyards so they are in
good
company.

A man and his dog
We arrived on a beautiful day to find Vaughn and his dog
Darcy at
what can only be described as a fairly soggy construction site. "Keep
you door closed she likes to sit in cars" Vaughn warned as he made us
welcome. Darcy seemed more interested in the frogs than our car and we
were more worried Michelle would indulge in a bit of dognapping so we
took all the necessary precautions just in case.
Vaughn is a passionate winemaker who is working in a partly
constructed winery. He and Linda are also in the process of building
their home, just to make their lives even more interesting!
Having been made to feel very welcome and spending time
discussing
the 'fun' of building your own home it was into the winery to try the
range. We strongly suggest that you have a listen to the podcasts to
hear about all the range but
for all you "I only read stuff" punters here are our highlights.

Vaughn Dell
We started with a pre-bottled sample of the 09 riesling
which had
been made in an FGR style. Vaughn refers to the style as 'off dry' to
distinguish it from a 'sweet' wine. "I prefer to call it off dry
because its not necessarily sweet ... most sweet wines have 100 grams
of residual sugar or more".
"We are trying to make a serious wine style ... we
are
looking at what they do in Germany and trying to model it on that
style". At this stage, the plan is to place to this wine under the
Bellingham vineyard label.
While the wine was cloudy it's taste is complete, rich and
amazing. Vaughn agreed that it could be filtered and
bottled but he wants to see how it develops a little more before going
ahead. He is expecting that the combination of the residual sugar and
acid will mean that this wine will age better than a classic dry white.
After enjoying the rieslings it was on to the chardonnays.
As we
said Vaughn and Linda won a gold medal for their 07 chardonnay and
Vaughn pointed out that means he has a 100% success rate. So is making
another chardonnay going to end in disappointment? The 08 Chardonnay
had only been bottled a month before and was suffering from what Vaughn
referred to as 'bottle shock'. This gave it a harder edge and
suppressed the flavour so it was too early to tell.

Part of what's on offer
However, based on Vaughn's description of what they had done
in
the
vineyard to ensure the fruit was as ripe as possible and the fact that
prior to it being bottled Rebecca Wilson from Holm Oak had nominated
the 08 as a more complex wine than the 07, we think that
this latest chardonnay has the potential to match it's successful
predecessor. We want to try it again before we make our final
judgement. There is going to be a bit of a wait for the 08 chardonnay
since it is unlikely to be released until March
2010.
Having dealt with the whites it was on to the pinots. The
first
Sinapius pinot was the 06 which put Vaughn and Linda in a quandary.
"The punters liked it but we were never happy with it". Vaughn liked
the wine up until it was bottled. "I don't know what happened but it
came back a different wine". The experience made him determined not to
use a contract wine maker in the future.
"So what we did with the 07 was back to bare bones ... we
did
simple strip back winemaking where we did absolutely nothing". The
simplistic approach has given Vaughn a much better idea of what is
possible with his fruit. The
result is a very very good pinot. It has the fruit up front and a nice
solid oak finish. It is a four foot guy who punches like a 6 foot 8
guy. By the way, we did try the 06 and we think that Vaughn is being a
bit harsh but the 07 is better.
The 07 has given Vaughn the confidence to expand his
winemaking
approach so that the 08 pinot has been made using techniques such as
whole bunch ferments.

mmmm construction!
In our humble opinion we think all three pinots have their
good
points. As we said the 06 is not as bad as Vaughn thinks and we
understand why it is selling so well. Punters who like a light fruity
pinot will enjoy it. The 07 is going to confront some punters with its
oak finish. But if you like a pinot that fights back on the way down
then the 07 is for you.
The 08 is going to be very interesting and we think it sits
somewhere between the 06 and the 07. Certainly Vaughn is happy with its
progress and we think they are really on to something. We can't wait to
go back and try it again once it has a bit more age.
If you want to try the Sinapius range you can contact them
at
sinapius at bigpond dot com, go to the Pinot Shop in Launceston or head
down to the Gasworks in Hobart.
There are more photos in our gallery.
What
do you think? Send us a comment