Wine road test
- 2010
See our earlier roadtests here.
2008 Grey Sands Pinot Gris

Courtesy of Grey Sands
In a word big. In a few more
words impressively massive, spectacularly huge and ginourmously
humongous. This wine virtually explodes out of the bottle. The smell,
the taste and the effect. It is absolutely amazing and just a tad
frightening.
Tasting it you find that the
acid levels are very good, which is to say they are like the mortar
between bricks rather than a cement render. The acid holds the wine up
but you still get all the savoury flavour.
What's it like with food?
Pinot Gris is a relaxed
variety and the
good ones are meant to be either drunk on their own or with casual
style food. We had the Grey Sands with a salmon salad sandwich and were
impressed with the combination. If you're one of those wine loving
corporate over achievers who never takes a break this is the wine to
sneak in to have with lunch at your desk. Our tip, go for the large hip
flask.
What's it like the next day
Even straight from the fridge
this wine delivered a lot of taste. It was a little more laid back than
on the previous day. For some of the tasting team, this was a good
thing. "It's a little less scary" they said.
Letting the wine warm up a bit saw it become a peary, acidy, savoury
package that made you feel like you'd just done a full on yoga class.
All the relaxation with none of the funny noises that always get you
into trouble.
In summary
Some people continue to argue
that pinot gris is tasteless and we keep finding wines that make those
people look and sound stupid. Or at least make it obvious they haven't
tried the right pinot gris.
This wine is massive and frankly not for those of the sensitive
persuasion. That first glass is like being mud wrestled by a Sumo.
Every sense is getting the workout of it's life. By the second and
third day the Sumo wrestling has become a soothing Sumo relaxation
massage. Intense but far less frightening.
Sometimes we recommend opening a wine a day before you drink it to
allow the taste and impact to reach it's peak. With the 2008 Grey Sands
Pinot Gris however we say the opposite. If you are not used to, and
wouldn't enjoy, driving at 200km an hour then leave this wine open for
a day and then try it.
Overall this wine is an experience that will leave you a bit
breathless. You'll want to tell your friends about it again and again.
In fact you'll talk about it so much that they won't return your calls
and will cross the street to avoid you.
2007 Grey Sands Chardonnay
Viognier
What's it
like straight out
of the bottle?

07 Grey Sands
Chardonnay
Viognier
After
our experience with their pinot gris we approached this wine with just
a touch of trepidation. Make no mistake Grey Sands wines are a full on
experience. You have to be up for a bit of adventure, or so we thought.
This chardonnay proves that Bob and Rita Richter also know how to
produce a wine that calls attention to itself without screaming in your
ears.
The first thing you notice is that lovely aged chardonnay look.
Everything should be that yellow. This amazing colour is followed by a
big, buttery and oaky smell that reminded us of a fresh croissant. It's
probably very bad for you but completely irresistible at the same time.
Unlike many Tasmanian whites this wine has less acid but enough to give
it a framework on which to hang the flavour. It's highlight hits almost
immediately and then lets you down nice and easy with a very long finish
The chardonnay is a baby bear wine. It's just right. Vanilla and oak
with the trademark Grey Sands savoury highlight. The long lingering
oaky finish leaves you looking like you've just been asked a question
about quantum physics by a beautiful person who has a lovely accent.
The 'anything but chardonnay' crowd will probably hate this wine but
lets face it no one cares what they think. If you like chardonnay then
you must try this one.

2005
Grey Sands Merlot
This wine has 13.6% alcohol
making 8 std drinks. The label mentions that no grape concentrate has
been added but it does contain preservative 220.

05 Grey Sands Merlot
This wine has a cork and we decided that we'd depart
somewhat from our
usual approach by putting it in a decanter. Asked to justify this
departure from our punter approach we replied "ah ... well ... you see
... oh look something shiny!"
From
the Decanter
This is a classic merlot. You
smell exactly what you expect but you do get more fruit than normal.
Its one of those wines that creates a great first impression. "I just
know I am going to like this" you think to yourself.
What's it like with
food?
This is a light and bright
wine that loved the decantering and couldn't wait to meet some food. We
obliged by setting up a blind date with a Greek inspired lamb pastitsio.
The food really brought out the sour cherry and plum flavour. It
also seemed to make the smokey backend more pronounced.
What's it like the next
day
The taste had rounded out
overnight. It was still very silky but the smokey backend had become
more earthy. This was offset somewhat by a lifting of the cherry
flavour.
We think the second day makes this wine more of a drink alone, it seems
more interesting and so deserves more attention from you. Its the
perfect wine to drink in a public library.
In summary
Everything we've tried from
Grey Sands
so far has impressed. This merlot is no exception. Not only is it a
great example of the variety but it can surprise. One member of the
tasting team tried it with licorice bullets and pronounced it the
perfect match. So if they're right then the Grey Sands Merlot can be
drunk with all the courses of a meal.

2008 Three Wishes Vineyard Pinot
It's been too long since our last road test. Luckily we
recently met Peter Whish-Wilson and he kindly gave us a bottle of his
2008 pinot to try. This is our first experience with a Three Wishes
Vineyard wine and we can't wait for more.

08 Three Wishes Pinot
From
the Cellar
Being winter the pinot was slightly chilled. Despite this
the wine exhibited a rounded blackberry nose and a lively,
spiky taste. "Hmmm" we thought "this can only get better from here".
Having got our notice the wine then went on to impress with its
tingling, lingering finish. Not bad for a 'temperature impaired'
pinot.
After being opened for a while
As the wine warmed it lost its spiky nature and took on a
mellow fruity flavour. The tannins became more marked and gave this
wine a depth it previously lacked. The change was such that you'd think
it was a completely different wine. We liked both of them.
What's it like with
food?
Since we hadn't done a roadtest for a while we went all out
in the food department. Meat has become increasingly expensive of late
(shame about the
quality, which is going in the opposite direction - Ed)
but we thought it was time for some serious rib eye beef. Baked in a
homegrown cherry tomato and mushroom sauce with a side of 'smashed'
peas this dish was just the right partner for a premium Tassie wine.
Just like Cher and Bono in the good old days (you know before one died and the other turned into plastic - Ed) the wine and
meal worked really well with each other.
Interestingly the wine changed again. The fruit flavour
increased and the backend mellowed. Maybe this wine should be called
the 'Three Wines' pinot.
What's it like the next
day
It took all the discipline we possess to leave some of this
pinot for the next day. Just as well because it went through another
change. From nowhere it developed a fine smoky aroma which wouldn't be
out of place in an expensive single malt whiskey. The great fruit
flavour was still there but was joined by an earthy taste. We tried it
with an open steak sandwich that turned out to be another inspired
choice. The Three Wishes does relaxed as well as more formal food.
The Next Next Day
Showing maturity and professionalism beyond our age and
experience, somehow a little was left for the next day. We thought we
knew this wine by now but .....
Imagine our surprise when we found yet another change in
this wine. All the good characteristics we had enjoyed the day before
were back but even stronger. The wine tasted even better, in fact we'd
go so
far as to say it tasted the best it had over the whole test. Incredible.
In summary
This wine changes so much it's like having three, or more,
wines in a single bottle. Three by name and definitely Three by
nature. Whatever you're doing Peter, keep it up.

What
do you think? Send us a comment