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| The
Peter Shields
Podcast |
shields_conversation_part1.mp3
(11.5
mb 16:45 minutes) |
In
this part of our conversation, after a really rambling start during
which we investigate child business ethics and slander French Pinot, we
hear about Peter's
introduction to the wine industry, we find out how to produce the worst
Grange vintage ever, we have a fair old moan about statistics and
discover how to bankrupt a university faculty.
To finish we find out what the Australian wine industry was like in the
'old days'. |
shields_conversation_part2.mp3
(14.7
mb 21:27 minutes) |
In this part we continue
to
follow Peter's career in the wine industry. Along the way we hear about
Billy Connolly and his wife (both past and present) find out how he
came to Tasmania and how he runs his winemaking business. To finish of
we discuss the
merits or otherwise of wine shows.
|
shields_conversation_part3.mp3
(15.8mb 23:03 minutes) |
In this part we hear
about Peter's best and
worst wine experiences, we hear about what it is like being a small
winemaker in Tasmania, Peter defends large winemakers like Orlando, we
discuss what you should look for in a Merlot, swap stories about the
Barossa and highlight the lego man. Moving on to the personal questions
we find out about Peter's favourite wine variety, his favourite wine
region and find out with whom he would like to have a glass of
wine. To finish Peter talks a little about his approach to winemaking. |
Peter Shields
-
He's made Grange.
We have runs on the
board with regard to how
not to
conduct an interview and we have to say we have probably
disappointed our god Andrew Denton again. Not that
we intended it to happen that way, it's just that talking to Peter
reminded us of those interviews that Michael Parkinson did with Billy
Connolly (Peter knew
Billy before he was famous - Ed). Michael would ask one
question and whoosh Billy would be off. The result was a very
funny, entertaining but chaotic experience. Now just so you
know,
we are not blaming Peter for the rambling nature of our
conversation.

Peter
Shields.
PJ led with a story about
buying plums from a couple of country kids
for reasons that still aren't clear. Our discipline then suffered
irreversible damage by Peter telling us his opinion of $600 bottles of
French Pinot. "They're all terrible, badly oxidised and badly
made .... so what level do you need to get to to get something
decent!?". As a result we just sat back and let Peter
talk and we
are very glad we did because he has a way of delivering what, by any
measure, is an incredible
knowledge of wine and the wine industry in the form of funny
and
entertaining
stories. We could have spent a lot of time editing the conversation
before we posted it but we think that would have ruined the
experience. Anyway, having justified ourselves lets move on.
Peter's connection with the
wine industry dates back to the late 1960's and encompasses both
practical and academic experience. His start came when he had the good
fortune to meet and then be asked by Peter McWilliams (Yes, that McWilliams - Ed)
to 'come and do a couple of vintages in the Hunter Valley'. This is a
bit like
meeting Bill Gates and being invited to come and write a wee bit of
software.
This
initial connection with the wine industry saw him eventually working
for Penfolds and gave him the chance to make Grange.
Unfortunately
Peter's major vintage occurred in 1974 which was a particularly wet
year
in the Barossa. As a result Peter is forever linked to the worst
Grange vintage in history (only
so far! - Ed).
If you think we are being a bit harsh check the price the vintages from
the 1970's are fetching - as Peter points out "it's usually around
$5,000
but the '74 is $100".

Winemaker
Boys Toys.
The
way Penfolds has been the corporate play thing of a number of
'entrepreneurs' is, in our opinion, one of the greatest
scandals
in the Australian wine industry. The takeover by Tooths
Brewery
of Penfolds in the mid 1970's began what Peter refers to as "the down
hill run to the Southcorp / Fosters thing". This change to the company
resulted in a disillusioned Peter leaving the industry,
spending
six
months in Bordeaux, and then taking up teaching at a high school in
Bourke NSW.
While
he had a great time teaching Economics and Geography at Bourke High
School, when Peter saw an advertisement for a position lecturing at
Roseworthy College he applied and was successful. At the time
Roseworthy, which had been training winemakers since the late 1800's,
was 'the' wine training school in Australia. Peter stayed at Roseworthy
until it was taken over by Adelaide University and the wine course
became increasingly theoretical.

Peter relaxing.
We
finished this part of the conversation sharing Peters disquiet about
how the mainland wine industry has changed over the years. In
particular Peter laments the effect of the move from a quality centric
industry to one influenced by managed investment schemes and 'profit
centres'. His story about what happened to the Grange vineyards near
Adelaide when Penfolds was taken over by Adelaide Steamship is
particularly depressing.
The
second part
Our
fun park ride this is the second part of our conversation
with Peter started on a reasonably serious note as we touched on the
difference between making beer and wine from a business perspective but
then quickly went back to the story telling nature with Peter
going 'international' as he explained how he moved to Scotland to
please
his wife (sensible
man our Pete - Ed) and ended up drinking
regularly with a relatively unknown but up and coming comic Billy
Connolly. At
this point the conversation took on a bit of a 'New Weekly' approach as
Peter
discussed Billy's new wife Pamela but eventually we got back to the
serious business of discussing wine.
Peter
and his wife eventually came back to Australia although Peter had to
promise that they would move somewhere cold and so they moved to West
Hobart and then Allens Rivulet. Peter's first vintage was made by a
former Roseworthy student Andrew Vasiljuk of Crosswinds Vineyard.
Andrew unfortunately became ill and could not continue to run his
vineyard or operate as a contract winemaker. In fact Peter told us that
the vineyard had been bulldozed after failing to be sold as a
vineyard. This is a very sad outcome
for all involved and has removed a great vineyard from the Tasmanian
wine scene.
Peter
did try another contract winemaker but
was so disappointed with the results that he decided to make his own
wine. He also noticed that there was an opportunity for a niche
winemaker to work with vineyard owners who do not produce a large
enough crush for the major winemakers. Mind you he did find that
initially some vineyard owners did not appreciate the French inspired
winemaking style that Peter uses.
We
finished with Peter's views on wine shows with him explaining why he
does not enter wines in the Tasmanian Wine show. This was pretty
relevant at the time of the conversation which took place the day
before we headed off the interview Phil Laing and others at that
particular wine show.
The last part of our
conversation will be
posted at the end of April and in it Peter is subjected to the feared
winepunter personal questions.
The third part
We
begin this part of the conversation asking Peter about his favourite
wine experience, which is the best one we have heard so far because it
involves a plucky Aussie battler sticking it up a bunch of
snooty french
wine snobs who tried to trick him (Another
french defeat, the list gets longer and longer! - Ed).
In the interests of balance and in the hope of a funny story we also
asked Peter about his worst wine experience to which he sensibly
replied "there's no such thing is there?". Although he did
confess to
having got horribly drunk at a 21st on "Chateau Gay" (heard of that one punters? - Ed)
which was a sparkling ben ean moselle with lots of sugar in it
- mmmm.
Peter
is a boutique winemaker and shared his thoughts about the local
industry. He is amazed at the concentration of winemaking in Tasmania
and as a result "you have a large number of labels that are not really
different". He also isn't convinced about the argument that this
doesn't matter because the wine gets its character in the vineyard.
"People say great wine is made in the vineyard but it's not, it really
isn't .. we
(winemakers) can stuff it up completely no trouble at all."
The other troubling aspect from Peters perspective
is the fact
that it isn't always possible to apply all the necessary wine making
steps because of the cost. In addition many vineyard owners do not take
advantage of the access they
have to a winemaker to see how their wines are made. In fact, only one
of his clients makes a point of coming in to taste the wines as they
develop. Many drop the grapes off and the next time Peter
sees
them is when they turn up to collect their wine. He made the point
that this also happens to the larger winemakers as well.
As
we like to do we moved on to our personal questions and we started by
wanting to know about his favourite wine variety. In response he gave
us a very interesting lesson in picking a good merlot or
malbec.
He also pointed out that wine labels like Orlando, while
known
for their bulk wines, are in fact excellent winemakers
and
people should get over their 'big labels are rubbish' snobbery and try
their premium wines. In particular Peter praised Lehmans 2003 Margaret
semillon, which is ridiculously cheap because so many people don't like
semillon.
Moving on to Peter's favourite wine region ended up
being a story swapfest about the Barossa (go see the Lego man in
Angaston - Ed)
and all our favourite names, like Charles Melton, got a
run. Talking about Charles Melton we still haven't got over the fact
that when we went to his cellar door we were directed to our seats,
handed a bottle of shiraz and told "help yourself" (this is what heaven is like
kiddies - Ed). While the Barossa is his favourite region
he believes overall the
Coonawarra makes the best wine especially the region's well made, aged
cabernets.
We
may have to rethink our "if a phone goes off during a conversation the
phone owner owes a dozen bottles to the others" people are
just
not living up to their obligations. Peter has joined an ever increasing
list of people who owe us a dozen bottles and none, that's right
punters none, have arrived.
In response to the theme song
question Peter mentioned "something by Leonard Cohen" or part of the
symphony from which we got the "Can Can" which is quite different from
the responses we have had in the past.
To finish we encouraged Peter talk about his approach to
winemaking and his response can be summed up best when he said
"Wine is not a product to be drunk like soft drink - it has
to be aged to give it complexity"
We
want to thank Peter for his time and all the wine he opened for us to
test during the conversation - something we hope catches on!
What
do you think? Send us a comment