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| The
Peacock Podcast |
| peacock_conversation_part1.mp3 |
In
this part of our conversation we hear about the great Tassie wine
substitution scam of the 70s. We spend time on the 'brand' that is
Tasmania. We then explore Fred's history with the Tassie
wine industry and hear about exporting wine into South East Asia.
Fred tells us why he is happy to mentor other people who are
his
competitors. We then discuss how good New Zealand is at marketing and
promoting their wine. We ask Fred why people should buy
Tassie
wine and we finish by discussing how well the Tasmanian wine industry
has
met the 10 year goals it set itself back in 1996. |
| peacock_conversation_part2.mp3 |
In this part we move away
from
the industry and start to focus on Bream Creek wines. As we
drink it Fred
takes us through the characteristics of his 2005 Gewurtztraminer,
explains why it is his favourite variety and why he
won't be growing it anymore. Lastly we spend a bit of time
discussing why the relationship between a winemaker and
viticulturalist is
critical and finding out what
characteristics Fred looks for in a winemaker. |
Fred Peacock
- Been there, done that - well nearly anyway.

Fred
Peacock. Can you remember the first Tasmanian wine you
ever drank?
If you live in Southern Tasmania there is a very good chance
that it was from Bream Creek. Mind you, if you live in
Melbourne, Sydney, Sweden or Canada your answer may well be the same.
There is no doubt that Bream Creek has been a 'player' within
the Tasmanian wine industry for a long period so you
can imagine how excited we were that Fred Peacock had agreed to come
and have a chat. Not only that, but he agreed to travel to
the
Winepunters engine room. When you produce a website on a nil
budget, any saving on petrol, especially at current prices, is a big
thing.
If you have listened to our past
conversations you may
well think that we can't do a serious 'interview'. Well we think the
conversation with Fred will change your mind. When he
ventured into the
Winepunters engine room for a chat with PJ
and 'Please Don't Name
Me' a very serious, informative and interesting
conversation
unfolded. Settling down to chat it didn't
take long for us to be amazed at the
extent of Fred's knowledge and understanding of the winemaking process.
This
shouldn't have come as a surprise since Fred has
been involved in the
Tasmanian wine
industry since the mid 70's and has had almost every job the industry
has to offer. In addition to all the normal tasks you would
expect, he was involved in 'raiding' unscrupulous people who were
trying to pass off dodgy mainland wine as Tasmanian (for shame, for
shame - Ed). The big question we forgot to ask
was what happened to all that confiscated wine? Did it end up
at Fred's place? Did he have a rash of great parties and
BBQ's ? If so, why weren't we invited? (is that the faint waft of
scandal I smell? - Ed)

Farewell
to the Gewurtz? Initially
we
concentrated on his industry experience and we asked him about how
Tasmania is going with it's attempt to export wine into Southeast Asia.
While progress is frustratingly slow
he has experienced some
amusing incidents due to the cultural differences in that part of the
world. We have a lot of sympathy for those plucky Tasmanians
who found themselves spending time pitching their wine to someone who
may well have been the janitor rather than the CEO and those
trying to hold a
wine tasting where, on religious grounds, no
one could
drink - as our guru Homer Simpson would say "D'oh".
Prior
to
our conversation we had heard a number of people who had praised Fred
for his willingness and ability to act as a mentor for other members of
the industry. We were curious about a 'businessman' helping
his
'competition'. When we put this to him, Fred replied that it
makes
sense for everyone to help each other to reach and maintain the highest
possible quality until
the Tasmanian wine industry reaches an economic critical mass.
As he says - no quality no future.

The
Schonburger
Talking about 'competition' it was
fascinating to
hear Fred
describe how the New Zealand wine industry markets it's product.
Fred's admiration about the Kiwis was palpable and, despite
our
poor attempt at humour, we have to acknowledge that New Zealand
provides a clear example of how to go about the promotion and marketing
of wine.
We like to ask people who are involved in
the wine
industry why a punter should buy Tassie wine and we often get
the
'oh it's a quality product' response. This is, of course, a
true
and sensible answer but Fred went further and talked about how well the
'style' of Tasmanian wine matches with food. Just a warning,
beer
lovers may not enjoy this part of the conversation as much as wine
lovers.
Given Fred's extensive industry experience
we
wanted to
ask him about the planning behind the industry and we had found a copy
of the 1996 Strategic Plan. What fascinated us was the
opportunity to look at what people were thinking back then and to see
how well the industry had done in meeting the goals they had set
themselves. This may sound a little dry but Fred
has the ability to explain most things in an interesting manner and
this was no exception.
Update
from the second part
This
part is probably our favourite because we concentrated
on Bream
Creek wines themselves. Prior to the conversation we
purchased a bottle of 05 gewurztraminer from Bream Creek. By
chance this happened to be Fred's favourite variety so we asked him to
take us through the pros and cons of this wine. If you like
white wine his explanation was fantastic and he certainly convinced us
to drink more Bream Creek gewurztraminer while we can still get it.
If
you want to know
why we would say that here is some of what Fred said about this
variety. "Its
got the most amazing match with food, its got a lovely freshness about
it, it's spicy at the same time, it's got a lovely mouth feel, its
silky but more interestingly it has the most amazing ageing potential" (nuff said - Ed).
He went on to describe what happens to the taste of
a gewurztraminer as it ages. It
sounded like it behaves in a similar manner to Pinot in that it has a
'flat spot' at about 2 years but it comes back and can be 'stunning'
after 20 years.
Despite the obvious charms of
gewurztraminer Fred
laments the fact that it has been overrun by varieties like sauvignon
blanc. Part of the reason for this is that many people find
it
harder to pronounce and even the spelling can trip
people up (PJ should
know - he got it wrong
in the podcast and misspelt it in this article- Ed).
Fred got so incensed at the way gewurztraminer
was being pronounced and spelt he even changed the label for one
vintage so it said Traminer. Yes, Fred knows that Traminer is
a
different variety to gewurztraminer but you can understand his
frustration.

The
gewurztraminer
Unfortunately the Bream Creek
vineyard
is located in an area of Tasmania that means a variety like
gewurztraminer can not be produced in sufficient quantity or
consistent quality to make money. As a result he has ripped out those
vines and replaced them with sauvignon blanc.
So if you want to try his gewurztraminer you had
better hurry.
Based on what we had learned about
Fred's experience and knowledge it seemed appropriate to
ask why he doesn't make his own wine. The
answer comes down to the economics of the wine
industry in Tasmania with its relatively large number of small owner
operated vineyards.
As Fred points out "its very difficult to be everything, so
if you are
trying to be the business principle, work in the field, do the
advertising, do the accounting and also have some input into the style
of the wine then its very difficult to be the hands on
winemaker". In
addition it costs a lot of money to set up and run a winemaking
operation so it makes sense to use a contract winemaker.
Given
this situation we wanted to explore the relationship between the
vineyard owner and the winemaker. We had seen a documentary about the
French wine industry which showed that some winemakers had a 'master'
'servant' relationship with their vine growers and we were
pretty uncomfortable with all the forelock tugging that this
created. We wanted to know if having primadonna winemakers was
good for the industry. Being a true Aussie Fred retorted "no
its a disaster for the industry". In fact the process of
treating the winemaker as some sort of wizard and simply dropping your
fruit off at the winemaking plant and waiting for the 'award winning'
wine to be produced had been dispensed with in Tasmania at least a
decade ago.

wine
in the making
Having settled that we wanted to
know
what characteristics you look for in a good winemaker. The
key, according to Fred, is having a real partnership between the
winemaker and vine grower. Simply being a skilled winemaker
is not enough, what's necessary is an understanding of the whole
process. Fred wants his winemaker to give advice on
viticulture issues as well as take advice on winemaking issues.
As a result Fred and his winemaker (Julian
Alcorso - Winemaking Tasmania) spend their time getting the right wine
'style' rather than debating technical issues. So far this
partnership has worked extremely well and is obviously based on mutual
respect.
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